Carsaig Arches

This has to be the most magnificent of all the coastal walks on Mull. The Carsaig Arches are not only breathtaking in themselves, but the walk to them, from either direction, passes under some of the highest and most spectacular cliffs in Britain.

This is goat country, eagle country and, in spring, nesting country for kittiwakes and fulmars. On the walk in (from Carsaig) an interesting side excursion may be made to the Nuns' cave, where the nuns are reputed to have taken refuge after being driven from Iona.

The arches themselves are very different in character. One is a massive tunnel floored with rounded boulders the size of footballs. With any swell running, the sound of the sea booms through the cave and the boulders roll restlessly grinding themselves smoother and smoother through the centuries.

The other arch is a crazy, 36 metre tower - a gothic freak of nature with a keyhole slot through its centre made for a gigantic key 20 metres high. It is seen here alternately from the seaward side and landward side.

Like most of the coastal walking in Mull, this is rough going - the stunning scenery is the result of eroding sedimentary rocks underlying the Mull volcanics. As the younger rocks crumble, the volcanic cliffs above are dramatically steepened.

The walk in to the arches from Carsaig is a full four miles. It is extremely hard going (allow at least two hours each way). The walk from Scoor (via Shiaba) is longer, and it is more difficult to reach the start-point by car. There are no other ways in, the cliffs being unscaleable for almost all their length.

Approaching from Carsaig, nothing can be seen of the arches until suddenly you arrive at the first. But you can't (easily) climb down here (second image). To reach the taller and more spectacular 'key-hole' arch you have to walk along a narrow goat track above the first arch.

References:

Olive Brown and Jean Whittaker, Walking in South Mull and Iona
ISBN: 1 904353 06 1 (8th Edition Revised and updated 2005)
Mull in the Making by Rosalind Jones