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MULL
THE Isle of Mull lies on the West Coast, opposite to Lochaber,
Swoonard, and Moydort. It is divided from these by a narrow
Channel, not exceeding half a League in breadth; the Isle is twenty four
Miles long, from South to North, and as many in breadth from East to West.
A South-East Moon causes high Tide here. This Isle is in the Sheriffdom
of Argyle; the Air here is temperately cold and moist; the fresh
Breezes that blow from the Mountains do in some measure qualify it: the
Natives are accustom'd to take a large Dose of Aquavitæ as
a Corrective, when the Season is very moist, and then they are very careful
to chew a piece of Charmel-Root, finding it to be Aromatick;
especially when they intend to have a Drinking-bout, for they say this
in some measure prevents Drunkenness.
THE Mould is generally black, and brown, both in the Hills and Valleys,
and in some parts a Clay of different Colours. The Heaths afford abundance
of Turff and Peats, which serve the Natives for good Fewel. There is a
great Ridg of Mountains about the middle of the Isle, one of them very
high, and therefore call'd Bein Vore, i.e. a great Mountain. It
is to be seen from all the Western Isles, and a considerable Part of the
Continent. Both Mountains and Valleys afford good Pasturage for all sorts
of Cattle, as Sheep, Goats, and Deer, which herd among the Hills and Bushes.
The Horses are but of a low Size, yet very sprightly; their black Cattle
are likewise low in Size, but their Flesh is very delicious and fine.
There's Abundance of wild Fowl in the Hills and Valleys; and among 'em
the black Cock, Heath-Hen, Tarmagan, and very fine Hawks: the Sea-Coast
affords all such Fowl as are to be had in the Western Isles. The Corn
growing here, is only Barley and Oats. There's great Variety of Plants
in the Hills and Valleys, but there is no Wood here, except a few Coppices
on the Coast. There are some Bays, and Places for Anchorage about the
Isle. The Bay of Duart on the East Side, and to the North of the
Castle of that Name, is reckoned a safe Anchoring-place, and frequented
by Strangers. Lochbuy on the opposite West Side, is but an indifferent
Harbour, yet Vessels go into it for Herring.
THE Coast on the West abounds with Rocks for two Leagues West and South-West.
The Bloody Bay is over against the North End of Island Columkil,
and only fit for Vessels of about an hundred Tun.
SOME few Miles further to the North-East is Loch-Levin, the Entry
lies to the Westward, and goes twelve Miles Easterly; there are Herrings
to be had in it sometimes, and it abounds with Oysters, Cockles, Muscles,
Clams, &c.
LOCH-LAY lies on the South Side of Loch-Levin; it is proper
only for small Vessels; Herring are to be had in it sometimes, and it
abounds with Variety of Shell-Fish: the small Isles, called the white
Isle, and Isle of Kids, are within this Bay. To the North of Loch-Levin
lies Loch-Scafford; it enters South West, and runs North-East within
it lie the Isles Eorsæ: and Inchkenneth, both which
are reputed very fruitful in Cattle and Corn.
THERE is a little Chappel in this Isle, in which many of the Inhabitants
of all Ranks are buried. Upon the North Side of Loch-Scafford lies
the Isle of Vevay, it's three Miles in Circumference, and encompass'd
with Rocks and Shelves, but fruitful in Corn, Grass, &c.
TO the West of Ulva, lies the Isle Gometra, a Mile in
Circumference, and fruitful in proportion to the other Isles.
ABOUT four Miles further lie the small Isles, call'd Kairnburg-More
and Kernbug-Beg; they are naturally very strong, fac'd all round
with a Rock, having a narrow Entry, and a violent Current of a Tide on
each side, so that they are almost impregnable. A very few Men are able
to defend these two Forts against a thousand. There is a small Garison
of the Standing Forces in them at present.
TO the South of these Forts lie the small Isles of Fladday, Lungay,
Back, and the Call of the Back: Cod and Ling are
to be had plentifully about all these Islands.
NEAR to the North-East End of Mull, lies the Isle Calve;
it is above two Miles in compass, has a Coppice, and affords good Pasturage
for all kind of Cattle. Between this Isle, and the Isle of Mull,
there is a capacious and excellent Bay, called Tonbir Mory, i.e.
the Virgin Mary's Well; because the Water of a Well of that Name,
which is said to be Medicinal, runs into the Bay.
ONE of the Ships of the Spanish Armada, called the Florida,
perished in this Bay, having being blown up by one Smallet of Dunbarton,
in the Year 1588. There was a great Sum of Gold and Mony on board the
Ship, which disposed the Earl of Argyle, and some English-men,
to attempt the Recovery of it; but how far the latter succeeded in this
Enterprize, is not generally well known; only that some Pieces of Gold,
and Mony, and a Golden Chain was taken out of her. I have seen some fine
brass Cannon, some Pieces of Eight, Teeth, Beads and Pins that had been
taken out of that Ship. Several of the Inhabitants of Mull told
me that they had conversed with their Relations that were living at the
Harbour when this Ship was blown up; and they gave an account of an admirable
Providence that appear'd in the Preservation of one Doctor Beaton,
(the famous Physician of Mull) who was on board the Ship when she
blew up, and was then sitting on the upper Deck, which was blown up entire,
and thrown a good way off; yet the Doctor was saved; and liv'd several
Years after.
THE black and white Indian Nuts are found on the West side of
this Isle; the natives pulverize the black Kernel or the black Nut, and
drink it in boil'd Milk for curing the Diarrhea.
THERE are several Rivers in the Isle that afford Salmon, and
some Rivers abound with the black Muscle that breeds Pearl. There
are also some fresh-water Lakes that have Trouts and Eels. The whole Isle
is very well water'd with many Springs and Fountains. They told me of
a Spring in the South side of the Mountain Bein Vore, that has
a yellow colour'd Stone at the Bottom, which doth not burn, or become
hot, tho it should be kept in the Fire for a whole day together.
THE Amphibia in this Isle are Seals, Otters, Vipers,
of the same kind as those described in the Isle of Skie, and the
Natives use the same Cures for the biting of Vipers. Foxes abound
in this Isle, and do much hurt among the Lambs and Kids.
THERE are three Castles in the Isle, to wit, the Castle of Duart,
situated on the East, built upon a Rock, the East side is surrounded by
the Sea. This was the Seat of Sir John Mack-Lean, Head of the antient
Family of the Mack-Leans; and is now, together with the Estate,
which was the major Part of the Island, become the Duke of Argyle's
property, by the Forfeiture of Sir John.
SOME Miles further on the West Coast, stands the Castle of Moy,
at the head of Lochbuy, and is the Seat of Mack-Lean of
Lochbuy.
THERE is an old Castle at Aros in the middle of the Island, now
in ruins. There are some old Forts here called Dunns, suppos'd
to have been built by the Danes. There are two Parish-Churches
in the Isle, viz. Killinchen-Benorth, Loch-Levin, and a
little Chappel, call'd Kilwichk-Ewin, at the Lake above Loch-Lay;
each Parish hath a Minister. The Inhabitants are all Protestants, except
two or three, who are Roman Catholicks; they observe the Festivals of
Christmas, Easter, Good-Friday, and St. Michael's.
They speak the Irish Language generally, but those of the best
Rank speak English; they wear the same Habit as the rest of the
Islanders.
From: Martin Martin, A Description of the Western Highlands of Scotland
(London, 1703, 2nd [enlarged] edition 1716).
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